"One of the historic names in the tiny Boca appellation. The entry-level Origini and Nebbiolo Colline Novaresi are both terrific, while the flagship Boca is truly stellar. Readers will not want to miss these wines." — Antonio Galloni, Vinous

Castello Conti is one of the most compelling estates in Alto Piemonte — and one of the most human wine stories we know. The winery was founded in 1963 by Ermanno Conti in Maggiora, in the tiny Boca DOC of northern Piedmont. Ermanno was one of the founding members of the Boca DOC itself, persisting in farming his single precious hectare even as the region teetered on the edge of extinction. His three daughters — Elena, Anna and Paola — took over between 2002 and 2006, and have since become undeniable leaders of the appellation, reclaiming and replanting old vineyards and winning over the sceptical old-timers of this deeply conservative rural area through sheer dedication and the quality of their wines. The Boca DOC is one of the smallest appellations in Italy — just 12 hectares across five villages, split between eleven vineyard owners. The soils are volcanic porphyry, iron-rich limestone-clay, quartz and sand. Nebbiolo is the principal grape, blended with Vespolina and Uva Rara as the DOC dictates. The resulting wines can be haunting, fine-boned and built for extraordinary longevity. We have vintages dating back to 1984 that are still drinking beautifully (almost gone though!). The range spans from Origini — a wild, traditional field blend of Nebbiolo, Vespolina, Bonarda, Barbera and Uva Rara, a window into how Alto Piemonte wines were made a century ago — through the Spanna (pure Nebbiolo from Colline Novaresi) and up to the flagship Boca 'Il Rosso delle Donne': aged three years in large Slavonian oak botti, a potent, structured wine that rewards decades of patience. Only around 1,000 bottles of Boca are produced each vintage. We take what we can get.

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